Visited café number nine this morning and lo and behold: decent coffee. Still a hipster shop falling for the 100% Arabica folly, plus I had to tell them not to water it down too much, but it was acceptable.
Empanada lunch at an Argentinian place was enjoyable as well.
What I really enjoyed was conversing in Spanish. I have by now reached a level that allows me to navigate and to talk about food and beverages. Which is pretty much what I require from a travel language.
So not all is bad after all in Madrid. And the best is still to come: The flight out tonight!